If you’ve ever wondered what makes the cobra dance, this is the place to find out. For Marrakech’s street performers, an ordinary afternoon means out of the ordinary entertainment. Enchanted serpents are just a small part of the action on Djema’a al Fna Square, just inside Marrakech’s ancient ramparts.

This is a cultural crossroad of a very theatrical kind. It’s Marrakech’s answer to the three-ring circus, and it’s been show time here every day since the 11th century. Every afternoon, Djema’a al Fna transforms itself into a festival of sights and sounds.

It used to be that every city in Morocco had a place like this, a sort of entertainment free for all in the center of town. But the country has moved into the TV age, and people are leaving the old ways behind. Now Djema’a al Fna is the only one left.

Weedah Taba works to protect this unique part of Marrakech’s culture as part of a grass-roots organization dedicated to the square.

“It’s essential because it’s the memory of the city. If you want to learn the history of this city, if you want to get to know its sensibilities, if you want to learn about its habits, its tastes, its desires, come to the square.”

There’s something for everyone. Street preachers give sermons on the Koran while fortunetellers read the stars. Public scribes write letters for the illiterate and herbal pharmacies dispense medicines and advice. But when Marrakeshes want to just sit back, relax and listen, they turn to the storytellers.

Laahki Bin Jikami is telling the story of the inheritance. The son of a rich merchant is advised by his dying father to live a virtuous life. But he falls victim to temptation and suffers the consequences. Old men and young boys gather around, hanging on his every word.